English - Students' Corner - Contributions

Seychelles, by Mercedes Oliver (Av2 TUES, course 2008-09)

Almost everyone has heard once the name of this archipelago. But what do we really know about this group of islands? Where are they? Is it a country or a colony? This exotic touristy paradise remains unknown to us.

The Seychelles are a group of 156 islands in the Indic Ocean, some 1,500 kilometres east of mainland Africa and in the northeast of the island of Madagascar. They are really in the middle of nowhere -- very isolated. This is why these islands were uninhabited until the 18th century. Before that only pirates and privateers used the Seychelles as a temporary base during lulls in their marauding.

In 1742, Mahé de Labourdonnais, the governor of what is now Mauritius, knowing about the existence of the islands, sent an expedition to investigate them. After a series of journeys that lasted 12 years the French claimed possession of the islands.

It took a while for the French to do anything with their possession. It wasn’t until 1770 that the first batch of 21 settlers along with 12 slaves arrived, hoping for a new beginning in another land. Families and slaves began growing spices, cassava, sugarcane and maize.

After a few years, the British began taking an interest in the Seychelles. The French were not willing to die for their colony and didn’t oppose British attacks, so in 1814 the Seychelles became a British dependency. The British did little to develop the islands except increase the number of slaves to work on the plantations. Few British settled, so the French culture and language remained dominant. In 1835, the abolition of slavery increased black population in the islands, as freed slaves were massively brought there.

More than a century went by, and while still under the British Crown, two political parties were formed in 1964; Seychelles People’s United Party (SPUP) and Seychelles Democratic Party (SDP). After two years the first democratic elections were held and James Mancham (SDP) won in 1966 and again in 1970. Independence arrived in 1976 when a coalition between the two leaders of SPUP and SDP gave strength to the country and the appearance of unity. Manchan became the first president of the Republic of Seychelles and René (SDP) its prime minister.  After a year of independence, in 1977, René and a group of Tanzanian-trained rebels carried out a coup that forced Manchan out of power. Since then Albert René is in the presidency, in all these years he has faced two army mutinies and several coups attempts, democratic elections were re-established in 1992 and he has been re-elected ever since.

This president has made the economy heavily reliant on tourism, and soon as the visitor arrives he will feel in a paradise. Whether or not the Seychelles is heaven for its own population is another story. Black people constitute the majority of the population, they are called Creole. They remain workers, very few own their own business and their situation is, as president René put it, little better off than that of slaves. There is also a little influence of Indian, Chinese and Arab blood. White people are called grands blancs, and although most were dispossessed in the wake of the 1977 coup, they are the ones that control the economy, tourist business, agriculture and industrial fishing.

As for the daily life, Seychellois are a very charming and welcoming people. They have three official languages, French, English and Selselwa Creole, which is the one they speak among them. The majority of the population lives in Victoria, the capital of Seychelles, located in Mahé Island. The national currency is called Rupees, but Euros and Dollars are accepted. Apparently, in recent times many visitors were being asked to pay in foreign money and this was devaluating the Rupee and thus harming national economy, so two months ago the government declared that buyers have the right to decide in which currency they want to pay.

I strongly recommend you to go and explore this beautiful place, which in contrast to what many people might think, it has reasonably or low-priced alternatives for the not so rich visitor. Just buy the PDF format of the Lonely Planet Guide, which is affordable, and browse from time to time for cheap flights with Seychelles Airlines. Good luck!!

St. Pierre Island. Photo by Angelo Cavalli/STMA

A more personal narration

Allow me now to tell you about my personal experience in this dazzling place.

I spent there ten wondrous days. I rented a car for most of my stay so I could freely go around and visit all the small beaches on my own. I do not like very much the idea of an organized trip. I was always carrying what I considered indispensable -- a bikini and a camera. One has to control oneself not to stop every minute to take a picture or go for a swim!

I visited different island. It is very easy, you just have to take the ferry. It will cost you a fortune, though. The biggest islands offer the visitor not only spectacular beaches, but also National Parks, towns, plantations, a botanic garden… I strongly recommend you to go to Praslin and arrange an organized one-day trip at the local tourist information. This tour, which includes the visit to another three islands, is a hundred euros per person, but it is breathtaking. You will see endemic flora and fauna, and if you are lucky, as I was, you might even see a hawk turtle laying eggs!! Awesome.

Local food is delicious and very tasty. If you like fish you will be happy every day. But do not worry if you do not, there are a lot of European restaurants with the meals we are used to.

And if you like diving, as I do, I can give you a list of diving places over there. March, April, October and November are the best months. I have seen turtles, a white tip shark, a ray, different lion fishes…

So, just think about it, you do not need a visa to enter the Republic, but do not forget the mosquito repellent. Enjoy!!